One of the seminal chefs and most successful restaurateurs in Arkansas has announced his retirement. Chef Mark Abernathy, whose eclectic eateries melded local flavor with international flair, made the announcement to clients and friends via email Aug. 19.
“After a fulfilling a 55-year career in the restaurant industry, it’s time for me to retire and hang up my chef’s hat,” he wrote. “My journey has been marked by so many memorable moments, including recognition as one of the most influential chefs in the U.S. I have enjoyed bringing years of positive attention and national press for our Arkansas restaurant and tourism industry.”
Abernathy’s contributions to the Natural State’s culinary landscape assure his place in the lexicon of Arkansas food. Graduating from the University of Arkansas in 1971 with a degree in banking, he barely made it out of the graduation venue before knowing his future lay elsewhere.
As he told AY About You in 2023, “I was a hippie and had a lot of habits that didn’t fit in with banking. I decided to take a job at TGI Friday’s in Little Rock. It was the third TGI Friday’s in the nation.”
TGI Friday’s became a phenomenon, and a group of investors lured him to Texas, where the franchise was exploding in popularity. At 23 years old, the Arkansan was assistant manager at one of the hottest restaurants in the country, and he was hooked on the buzzing lifestyle.
“It was wild and fabulous,” Abernathy said simply. “That’s how I got into this.”
After 15 years in Texas, the hours and temptations caught up with him, and the former Eagle Scout came home to take a job as a Boy Scouts executive in Little Rock. It wouldn’t be long before the lack of great Tex-Mex food options would pull him back into his former career.
“I decided I would open a Tex-Mex restaurant and started looking for a location,” Abernathy said. “I found this great burned-out shell of a building with Spanish architecture on South Main Street. At the time, the area was crawling with winos and hookers. Madison Guaranty S&L was down the street and had started to redevelop the area.”
The establishment, Juanita’s, made big waves as it entered the scene as much as a revered music venue as for a landmark of great food.
“If you were a live act in Arkansas, you really wanted to play Juanita’s. Plus, the food was damn good,” Abernathy told AY.
After Juanita’s came Blue Mesa Grill, a project Abernathy launched with partner, Frank McGehee, bringing New Mexican flavor to central Arkansas. Abernathy is most fond of the venture for having created the first white cheese dip in the country.
His other restaurants have become synonymous with casually elegant dining in central Arkansas for nearly three decades: Bene Vita Great Italian; Loca Luna, Arkansas’ first Brick Oven Pizza; and Red Door, which set the new standard for brunch. Loca Luna and Red Door, located in midtown, will continue under new ownership by the Remolinos Group, which also operates Fidel & Co., Sterling Market and Stōko Coworking.
“Good news, the Loca Luna and Red Door staff that you have come to know and appreciate will still be part of the team,” Abernathy said through his announcement. “All gift cards and certificates are still valid. I plan to stay involved throughout the transition to ensure a smooth handover and help maintain the spirit of the restaurants. I couldn’t be more excited about the things to come.”
In addition to running his own establishments, Abernathy was a community organizer on behalf of the restaurant industry and the community at large. He spearheaded the Central High Museum National Park effort, was instrumental in forming the South Main Improvement District, which created SOMA and co-chaired the election in 1987 to allow alcohol sales on Sunday in restaurants and hotels.
“I’ve had a ball!” Abernathy said through his announcement, “But hey, I can’t do this forever, and it is past time to make room for younger, newer ideas and leadership.
“Thank you for choosing to dine with us, for celebrating your special moments at our tables, and for your incredible support through challenging times, including that pesky pandemic. Your smiles, laughter and camaraderie have made our restaurants a cherished part of the community.”
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